PERU Ayaviri to Héctor Tejada to Espinar to Chivay
An almost entirely off-tarmac ride through some towns and landscapes that you might otherwise miss
Dist: ≈370 km; Date: Feb 2014
Leave Ayaviri on the 3GS after passing the Reserva Ecológica La Moya and crossing the river. It’s a well-graded dirt road that begins with a very long straightaway of 54 km to the town of Humachiri followed by a stretch of the same to Llalli. After Llalli Ruta 3GS begins to meander among the sparse foliage of the hillsides and alongside the lovely Laguna Matarococha. Right around here, incidentally is where Jess was, first, chased by particularly tenacious dog that appeared quite literally out of nowhere and, then, suffered a broken chain that locked her rear wheel and sent her careening into the hillside.
Not much of note in Héctor Tejada but I did miraculously find a chain to fit Jess’s G650GS at a small repair shop and we had our first taste of alpaca at a small restaurant in the central plaza. From Héctor Tejada you’ll pass a series of shallow, paved water crossings to eventually reach the much more substantially city of Espinar after about 31 km.
From Espinar, it’s more dirt south. After about 40 km there is a bifurcation in the road. For what is sure to be a much more challenging route (which I have not tried) veer left and meander through the mountains for about 75 km until you reach the 34E, which will take you to Sibayo and from there on to Chivay. Otherwise, enjoy the more relaxed dirt route continuing south to Sibayo and from there on to Chivay.