‘So you all know I’m petrified of flying. It’s one of my phobias,’ the British aid worker said. ‘I feel like we talk about your phobias every week,’ said the female Australian aid worker. It was Sunday evening and there was a football match being projected onto the large screen. Around the table were a half dozen aid workers, several rounds of empty beer bottles, a fresh round of mostly full beer bottles, and three half finished pizzas. ‘That may be so,’ said the British aid

The air is cold so that it hurts in your lungs if you inhale through your mouth. So you make sure to inhale only through your nose. You do this for a few breaths until you find that your nose is so cold inside that it now hurts when you inhale as much as your lungs did when you breathed through your mouth. So you put your neck gaiter over your mouth and nose and breath the warm air as deeply as you can. But soon this becomes suffocating because the spoiled air you exhale does

You rise before the sunrise when the sky is light gray and fresh and as beautiful as any sky anywhere. Then you dress, which is to say you put on the same clothes you wore yesterday and probably the day before. While you dress, one of the porters brings you warm water. The warm water is wonderful as you rub it over your forearms and your face, but even better is the coolness you feel afterwards from the wetness. It is a beautiful, intense discomfort that you feel, which, like