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30 Jan 2014

Days 101-109 – Cobán, Alta Verapaz, Guatemala to Parque Nacional Volcán Masaya, Nicaragua – 16,837 km

 The Route: A) Coban, B) Antigua, C) Guatemala City, D) Juayua, E) La Libertad, F) San Salvador, G) Quezaltepeque, H) El Boquerón, I) Playas Negras, J) Tegucigalpa, K) León, L) La Paz Centro


From León, Nicaragua, Jess took Ruta 12 going southeast while I set out on an unnamed dirt road go...

29 Jan 2014

A beautiful and sometimes challenging jaunt through the Tatacoa Desert

Dist: 30 km; Date Feb 2014 (partial)

Leaving Villavieja along the Tatacoa Rd the Mirador El Cuzco, which comes after about 7 km, is a useful milestone because right about here there is a cluster of small restaurants and hotels before the tarmac ends and desolate Tatacoa Desert really takes form. Once off the tarmac, you will enco...

28 Jan 2014

A great route to on which to depart Bogota going south

Dist: 60km; Date: Jan 2014

Soacha is a municipality at the far southwestern corner of greater Bogota. Get yourself there because once you’re on Carrera 40 south of Soacha, your departing the congestion and beginning to feel freedom once again. Just outside Soacha, merge right onto El Colegio-El Charquito Road to follow it up the Bogotá River. Yo...

28 Jan 2014

Days 109-115 – Parque Nacional Volcán Masaya, Nicaragua to Cahuita, Limón, Costa Rica – 17,748 km



 When I reached La Paz Centro after the fall on the dirt road from León, I found Jess waiting for me beside her bike on the main highway.


‘I figured you would be a while so I sat at a restaurant and had a drink. Then I came here,’ she said. ‘Wait. Did you go down? You’re covered in dirt and so is you...

17 Jan 2014

Days 93-100 – Loma Bonita, Oaxaca, México to Cobán, Alta Verapaz, Guatemala – 15,213 km



It was Christmas Eve day and we were passing through a large storm system that was expanding across the states of Tabasco, Chiapas, and Veracruz. It rained heavily all throughout the day and, also, Carretera 180 was rutted and potholed so it was very slow going. When we finally left the highway and pulled into...

16 Jan 2014

If you’re crossing to or from Costa Rica, here’s a short detour to spice it up

Dist: 12 km; Date: Jan 2014

After crossing into Panama at the far less frequented northern Sixaola-Guabito border and after crossing the improbably rickety International Bridge over the Sixaola River, leave Guabito on the nameless, unpaved road going southeast into the fields, rather than following paved Route 915 north t...

14 Jan 2014

Make a mostly circuit of pristine Lake Arenal and find a place to camp along the way

Dist: 123 km; Date: Jan 2014

Lake Arenal and its accompanying volcano of the same name are one of the natural gems in a country replete with preserved natural places. Approach the Laguna de Arenal from the north at San Rafael de Guatuso along Route 143. Make a visit to the town of Nuevo Arenal. When we arrived it wa...

10 Jan 2014

Days 88-92 – Naucalpán de Juárez, Estado de México, México to Loma Bonita, Estado de Oaxaca – 13,584 km


‘They had just put the clothes in when I got there,’ I said.


‘They were supposed to do it last night,’ Jess said.


‘They said the city turned the water off last night and it only came back on this morning.’


‘So how long do we have to wait?’ she said.


‘Two hours,’ I said.


It had drizzled last nigh...

9 Jan 2014

Spice up the ride between Nicaragua’s capital and its beautiful colonial city of Granada

Dist 50 km; Date: Jan 2014

Leave Managua along main highway NIC-4. After about 16 km, turn right on NN-222 to enter Parque Nacional Volcán Masaya. Google will draw you in a bit early on what is clearly a more challenging spur of the NN-222. You’re on the right route if you pass the museum after just about a kilo...

8 Jan 2014

A visit to the ruins of León Viejo and then an adventurous skirting of Volcán Momotombo along Lago Xolotlán

Dist: 94 km; Date May 2010 and Jan 2014 (partial)

Leave León on 7ma Calle SE (just check the map!) where just beyond the city outskirts the tarmac ends. This is a smooth, dirt, sometimes-pebbly-sometimes-sandy road that offers tantalizing views of Volcán Momotombo straight ahead in the distanc...

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